Road Trip
After being on SummerSalt for a few weeks we got excited about seeing the interior of Cuba. The seaside resorts and beaches are great, but the countryside called us. We rented a car for four days, buttoned up the boat and began our journey.
Driving in Cuba is fairly normal in that you drive on the right side, signs are similar, etc. The biggest challenge is the press of humanity on foot, bicycle, horse, carts, and other assorted vehicles. Not to mention all of the animals that in or near the roads. We had to stop several times for bulls, dogs, and even chickens with a line of baby chicks following close behind. It felt like a Cuban video game where you get points for not hitting something as you weave through moving obstacles going as fast as you can.
Our first overnight stay was in Sanctis Spiritus, which is a city that recently celebrated its 500th anniversary. Most buildings were recently painted and was much cleaner than in Holquin. This city had beautiful parks and cobblestone streets scattered around every corner. A waiter named Thomas helped us find a charming casa particular (B&B) for $25 pesos, which is around $30 USD. His brother lives in Myrtle Beach and works with a church there. Our lobster dinner was the equivalent of $15 USD and as good as any we have ever had. Thomas was an English teacher making around $25 pesos a month. He recently started an academy to teach English and French to Cubans. His wife kept her teaching job, but works with Thomas on Saturdays, and is already making more working one day a week than 5 days at her school. We were his main customers that night, so we were able to have thoughtful discussion about Cuban life and society.
Our next stop was Trinidad, another half century old city all painted and beautiful. In 1989 it was declared an UNESCO Heritage city and is very deserving of that title. Trinidad is located on the southern coast, so it required a drive through mountains and valleys full of sugar cane, cattle and winding rivers. This is the dry season and parts reminded us of the western states in the US.
After spending one night in Trinidad, with little sleep due to dueling roosters at 3:30 AM, we hit the road again and drove along the coast west to Cienfuegos. This is a port city started by the French and is reflected in the architecture and design of the city. It was nice to have square numbered street blocks instead of intertwined streets with long Spanish names.
In the evening we drove to Santa Clara and stayed the night. This was a big city and very hard to navigate. We had a wonderful dinner at a rooftop restaurant. The casa particular arranged for the elderly man next door to sit up all night and watch our car for two pesos. Anita gave him more plus a toothbrush, and he was thrilled. The next morning we started back to the marina. On the way we stopped in a beautiful town called Remedious. We purchased some antique Cuban items at the market, drank a cappuccino in a street side cafe, listened to local musicians, ate lunch and journeyed on our way.
The drive back was long since we made numerous wrong turns and ended up once on a dirt bumpy road. We asked for directions from a girl waiting on the bus. She helped in broken English and asked to ride with us to the next town along our way home. After a total of almost 500 miles, we pulled up next to the boat, retired early and caught up on our sleep in the quiet marina.
As everywhere we have gone, the Cuban people are eager to please and genuinely happy to see us. They are proud of their heritage and very innovative to make due with what they have. Also, their rum is excellente!! Signing off for now.
Steve and Anita
