Back, back, back… in the US(s)A
First of all, Anita and I wish you and your loved ones a Merry Christmas and a year full of good surprises in 2017. We were so happy to spend Christmas Eve and Day in the US (nobody does Christmas like the Americans). The Cubans were still unofficially mourning for Castro and having somewhat muted Holidays, but there is no mourning in Key West. Even the mounted police have antlers and ribbons on their horse! It was a reality check to go from 0 to 60 by sailing 94.5 miles north.
I got an early Christmas present in Cuba by a visit from my daughter Nicole, her husband Kevin, and his 10 year old son Nate. They were scheduled to arrive in Havana at 12:30 on Monday, December 19th. By 4:30 PM, I was getting worried. Everyone kept reminding me that “this is Cuba” and relax. I kept reminding them that a father’s job is to worry and I had to be good at something. They did eventually show up and we began a fun four days of discovery into the culture, cuisine, history, and people of a beautiful but conflicted Havana.
Cuban cuisine is easy to describe since all the food and spices come from the same sources, with little variation from the fancy restaurants to the small family owned paladars. Pork and chicken are the king and queen of Cuban menus, seafood is third, and beef takes a distant fourth, while rice and beans take the most space on the plate, with vegetables serving a place of color more than nutrition. The best description I can give of Cuban food is that it was so delicious that we didn’t gain any weight during our five week visit. Enough said!
Havana’s history is the most unique I have seen, with no funds to change or upgrade things, each period of time is preserved in its own little time capsule, like the rings in a petrified tree, with Spanish, English, Russian and American influences everywhere. Old US cars add to the color and vitality of Havana, balanced against the dull military uniforms and tenement houses from the Russian culture. Even though we went to art museums, old forts, and walked the cobblestone streets, the best part of Cuba is the people, watching their animated conversations, children playing soccer with an old tennis ball, two old men (probably lifelong friends) sitting side by side quietly smoking cigars. Most Cubans we spoke to would like to see some change, but they have learned to be happy with what they have, like a content resignation.
With the US embargo still in full effect, our visit to Cuba was a humanitarian mission of giving out almost 300 toothbrushes. It is amazing how much fun someone can have performing that many acts of kindness. Everyone was surprised and most very appreciative. We had to be careful where to give the brushes out, because within seconds we would be surrounded by a dozen children all grabbing at the bag and wanting one for each of their seven siblings. Sometimes I felt like I had been covered with bacon and thrown into a dog kennel. The best method was the “drive by,” handing the brushes off like a track baton from the comfort of a peddle taxi while yelling Feliz Navidad.
The sail to Key West on December 23rd was a grueling 16 hour overnight slog through 10 foot waves and 25 mph winds, but to be back in the land of plenty was worth the effort. After five weeks in Cuba, America seems a little overindulgent, but that’s fine with us for a while. Today we made Christmas breakfast with French Toast and blueberries; those berries being the first ones since the start of our adventure.
In a couple of days we move up the Keys to Islamorada were SummerSalt will spend the winter. Our plans are to be back home before the New Year, when we will put away the shorts and pull out the coats and gloves.
Steve and Anita
